[Cialug] Raspberry Pi 3

Jeffrey Ollie jeff at ocjtech.us
Mon Feb 29 21:08:02 CST 2016


The relays need 5v and quite a bit of amperage to actuate.  The Raspberry
Pi's GPIO pins operate at 3.3v and can't deliver much current, but that's
enough to drive the optoisolators that ultimately trigger the relays.  The
jumper on the right should be removed and provided 5v power on the JD-VCC
pin from a separate (constant) source.  The GPIO pins are then connected to
the IN1 & IN2.

This diagram shows approximately how I have my RPi hooked up:

https://camo.githubusercontent.com/1afa45cb01b8bb7bed965bd2d4ff4d6e0d2a60ba/687474703a2f2f692e696d6775722e636f6d2f59516a4f7875592e706e67

On Mon, Feb 29, 2016 at 8:52 PM, Dave Weis <djweis at sjdjweis.com> wrote:

> What does the jumper on the right do? I bought a knock off 4 relay version
> and was worried to move it.
> On Feb 29, 2016 8:39 PM, "Jeffrey Ollie" <jeff at ocjtech.us> wrote:
>
> > On Mon, Feb 29, 2016 at 7:53 PM, Zachary Kotlarek <zach at kotlarek.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > If you’re confident you garage door will never put out something
> harmful
> > > on the signaling line you can interface it using a fairly simple
> > > transistor-based circuit. But you shouldn’t. Those 3.3v electronics are
> > > sensitive and a relay that will protect you is cheap. You can get
> > > solid-state relays that will trigger directly on logical-level outputs
> > from
> > > the Pi and get both simple circuit design/construction and lots of
> > > isolation.
> > >
> >
> > This is the relay I'm using:
> >
> > http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0057OC6D8
> >
> > --
> > Jeff Ollie
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-- 
Jeff Ollie


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